Monday, July 5, 2010

Jemez Loop Leaves Day Tripper in Awe

As appeared in the Albuquerque Journal Rio Rancho section 7/3/10

In another installment of my day tripping columns, I have to admit, and to the surprise of my tour guide, that having lived here for five years, I had never ventured up US 550 to explore the natural beauty of this part of our state.

I recently took a day trip and did “the loop,” mainly Route 4, Jémez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway that started out through the beautiful red rocks of the Jemez Valley.
We ventured off the beaten path to pay a visit to the Ponderosa Valley Vineyard and Winery, where on this particular Sunday afternoon every seat at the tasting counter was taken as the connoisseurs swilled their chardonnay and chatted it up with owners Henry and Mary Street. We grabbed a bottle of Summer Sage, put the dog back in the car and continued on our way.
Sitting on the tail gate of the parked car between the red mesas, I must say the colors are enough to leave you in awe. The mountainsides are a rich, dark reddish orange color that contrasts with the green of the brush and the blue of the sky. Where’s my camera? At home on the counter where I left it, of course.
Before continuing up Rt 4, another quick side trip on N.M. 485 lead us to the Gilman Tunnels; man made in the 1920s for a logging train passage. The tunnels frame out the waterfall and vertical rocks making for a beautiful picture, if only to be saved in my mind this time.

It was a beautiful cool, sunny day and although we were in a yellow Honda Element, a more open means of travel proved popular as seen by all of the motorcycles parked outside of the Los Ojos Restaurant & Saloon in Jemez Springs.

Nevertheless, I rolled my window down in the Honda and stuck my arm out the whole way; next stopping at Soda Dam, a natural phenomenon formed over time. My inner geologist was marveling at the mounds of calcium carbonate deposited over millions of years by the hot springs that made the rocks smooth in appearance, while my inner child likened it to melting scoops of ice cream.

The red rocks gave way to Aspens and pine trees as we continued north into the Santa Fe National Forest and passed Battleship Rock, a sheer cliff that rises suddenly above the river like a land locked lost ghost ship. Another picturesque moment.

We lunched on green chili Reuben sandwich and chicken fried steak in La Cueva at the Ridgeback Café where Animal Amigos was holding a yard sale in the parking lot to raise money for their dogs and cats.
Being the only New Mexican to not know about this, the 89,000 acre Valles Caldera National Preserve caught me off guard. We pulled off the road to take in the beauty of one of the largest volcanic calderas in the world, now a breathtaking expanse of mountain meadow and forest. Through the binoculars we saw herds of elk and cows grazing in the distance. This was definitely my favorite stop on the trip, as was it for Wayne, a full time RV’er who wandered over from his parked motor home to make friends with us and talk about the natural beauty of the area and how he surprisingly still had cell phone service.

Continuing the loop, we drove through Los Alamos. The damage can still be seen some ten years later from the 2000 Cerro Grande fire that burned 48,000 acres of lush forest and over 400 family homes. The blacked hillside is a sad reminder just how vulnerable life is.

Rounding Santa Fe, we continued down the home stretch on I-25 south and back to Rio Rancho in time for sunset. A day trip worth doing for visiting guests or your own family.

Quote of the Week: “It was a beautiful day, the sun beat down, I had the radio on, I was drivin’. Trees flew by, I was flyin’,” – Tom Petty, Runnin’ Down a Dream.

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